Bicentennial, a local adventure.

Before I explain my weekend celebrating Chile's Bicentennial, let me back up a few days to September 11th.

As you are all aware September 11th is an extremely important date in the history of the United States and serves as a day of remembrance for the lives lost. Here in Chile September 11th is also a day of remembrance, but for a much different reason. On September 11th, 1973 a 'golpe del estado' or better known as a 'coup d'etat' occured in La Moneda in Santiago, Chile, resulting in the suicide of Salvador Allende and the beginning of a cruel dictatorship led by Pinochet. This year has been a tumultuous one in the history of Chile shaped by events such as the earthquake in February, one of the strongest to ever happen in the world, the collapse of the mine in early August and the Mapuche hunger strike. All of which has happened during a change in presidency from Michelle Bachelet to Sebastian Pinera.

Every year in Santiago and all over Chile there are riots and protests led by people that are still searching for answers of what happened to their loved ones during the dictatorship. This year Chile completed it's 200th year of independence and with that celebration on the horizon people were more desperate for answers and justice than ever before. Additionally, people wanted recognition of the struggles currently facing Chile, like indigenous rights and mining regulations to prevent future collapses. I was in Santiago on September 11th this year, though I was safely tucked away in Los Condes, back by the cordillera (Andes). I did watch the news later with Allyson's family and saw horrifying images of people burning buildings and throwing stones at houses and people. Juxtaposed with that was an interview with an old lady who was still searching for her son, demanding answers from the government that is no longer in power. If you haven't read 'Death of a Maiden' by Ariel Dorfman I strongly recommend that you do. It's a short play (100 pgs) that really speaks to the turmoil Chile faced during the dictatorship.

I also recommend you watch this video that was used for the NO campaign during the election of 1990 that removed Pinochet from office. This song is one of the most emotional and thought provoking songs that Chileans identify with, and while the video could be described as cheesy, it's anything but.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TDfZX51BgMU

In facing the history of a country I've just begun to know, I looked forward to the future of a nation full of possibilities and hope with my host family. Again and again I find myself so grateful to have a host family to round out my experience here. It's so nice to be able to come home to a family that wants to talk to you and listen, while expanding your knowledge and answering any questions you have. Before three days of meat and wine with my whole family I spent Friday night with Pablo, the Brooks' exchange student almost 4 years ago. He came to Vina to meet up with friends and ended up spending the whole night with me and my friends. It was so so great to see him after all this time and talk about the 'old days' and what we've been up to. We went to 'Los Jaivas' concert, which was a band I'd never heard of before, but is super famous here in Chile. My host mom loves them.

Los Jaivas is a band that was exiled during Pinochet's regime so a lot of their songs talk about coming home while experiencing new places. They also use a lot of indigenous instruments in their music and even some indigenous languages, specifically the Rapa Nui language. During their concert they had different groups of dancers come on stage to do traditional dances, including the Cueca. I found out there are 6 different kinds of Cueca, also Pablo's parents are national champions of la Cueca, pretty cool. I also got to see my first live Rapa Nui dance, very similar to the Hula in Hawaii.

This may not be their best song, but it is performed in la Quinta Vergara, which is where I saw them last Friday, so that's kind of cool. The main singer recently died so they had to have a new guy perform, they hired a man who looks almost exactly like this guy, but according to a lot of people doesn't sing nearly as well.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cp0a6ILYWMQ

After Los Jaivas we literally sprinted down Errazuriz (the main highway between Vina and Valpo) to see the fireworks being set off from Muelle Baron in Valpo. Our micro couldn't move because there was so much traffic and people just stopped in the middle of the road. I stood in the middle of Errazuriz with Pablo and Marina taking in the BEAUTIFUL fireworks display, really makes me look forward to New Year's here.

Fast forward three days: Anna has eaten an entire cow and at least a gallon of wine with Chirimoya (native fruit), not to mention so much carrot cake. Also, danced at least twenty minutes of Cueca with my Aunt and mom, succesful Bicentennario :)

Fotos: my host dad preparing the asado; my abuelos preparing pebre (Chilean salsa, onions, tomatoes, parsley, cilantro= DELICIOUS); Pancho, my cousin; Carlos, my cousin, being the poster child for everything you shouldn't do, but do during Fiestas Patrias; Rachel and my host dad making s'mores (brought some USA independence day traditions to Chile); Me and Pablo at Los Jaivas!